Tangkahan, North Sumatera

Tangkahan is sometimes mentioned as the HIDDEN PARADISE IN SUMATRA. It is definitely hidden and for many a paradise. It is the perfect place to get off the beaten track, but still have access to nice food and comfortable bungalows. Tangkahan is an interesting place in many ways. Interesting for what it has to offer and an interesting background. The elephants, the jungle, and the clean rivers are obvious attractions. What makes Tangkahan different is that it is a good example on how community based eco-tourism can stop illegal logging, improve livelihood, and develop a sense of pride amongst the locals. This development on the border of Leuser National Park where the bigger river Batang Serangan meets the smaller river Sungai Musam is the hidden paradise of Tangkahan.

• Ride the Sumatran elephants in the jungle!
• Float down the clear river!
• Go jungle trekking!
• Soak yourself in hot springs!
• Or take a course in how to handle and care for elephants!

Lembaga Pariwisata Tangkahan (LPT) is a local organization formed with the purpose to develop eco-tourism as a new form of lively hood and in this way prevent illegal logging. The idea was successful and illegal logging was effectively stopped in 2001. Indecon helped establish LPT and gave training in guiding, handicraft, etc. CTO is the the tourism business owned by LPT. All visitors to Tangkahan end up in the Visitor Center managed by CTO. They also control the eco-tourism, promote, receive bookings, coordinates, and arranges the elephant riding. 

The Community Response Unit (CRU) was formed by Fauna & Flora International and elephants were brought in to Tangkahan from Aceh. In some areas where humans and elephants often come in conflict over land use, elephants have been removed to a few "elephant schools". In Tangkahan the elephants were given a new dual function:

1. They directly help the rangers to patrol the forest of the national park against illegal logging.
2. As an eco-tourism attraction they improve the livelihood of the local communities and in this way indirectly prevent illegal logging.

In 2010 the Veterinary Society for Sumatran Wildlife Conservation, VESSWIC took over and continued the program.

TANGKAHAN >TRANSPORTATION

Tangkahan can be reached form Bukit Lawang, Medan, or Aceh. The last 20 km before Tangkahan is bad and cars cannot drive fast. Tangkahan is app. 50 km from Medan. Don't forget that you also can trek through the jungle between Bukit Lawang and Tangkahan.

TANGKAHAN >TRAVEL AGENTS:

CTO(Community Tour Operator). Ph: 081361423245, 085275605865, cto-tangkahan@yahoo.com

Travel agents that offers tours to Tangkahan are for example:
Trijaya Travel Agency www.trijaya-travel.com
Synergi Ravelino Tours & Travel www.ravelinotravel.com
Narasindo Tours www.narasindotours.com
Horas Tours horas@idola.net.id

TANGKAHAN > ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD

Tangkahan has several nice accommodations, most of them with nice bungalows in a natural setting, along the clear river. All of them has restaurants. Electricity is available between 18.00 and approximately 23.00. There is now mobile phone coverage from Telkomsel.

The first three accommodations below are on the other side of the river. There is a eco-friendly boat available, using the flowing water as the only form of power. For Rp. 10.000 you get a three day pass. A walking bridge over the river will maybe be built later this year.

If you travel with your own vehicle you can park in the area in front of the Visitor Center. Rp. 10.000 per car for as long you want plus Rp. 20.000 for the first night and Rp. 10.000 for the following nights. For motor bikes parking is Rp. 5.000 for the whole stay plus Rp. 10.000 per night. (They keep it in-doors at night).

Mega Inn. Ph: 081 370 211 009, 0853 7112 2213. megadepari@yahoo.com www.megainn.com 9 rooms w. bath: Rp. 75-100.000. Two 5-bed dorms: Rp. 30.000 per person. Discounts for longer stays.

Bamboo River (aka Black Tiger Lodge). Ph: 0853 5867 6372 (Wak Youn). 9 rooms w. bath, Rp. 150-250.000, incl. Breakfast for international guests.

Jungle Lodge. Ph: 0813 7633 4787. ssitepu@aol.com www.junglelodge.net 9 rooms w private bath: Rp. 85-200.000,-.

Linnea Resort, 0812 60463071 (Benny), 0813 7053 1176 (Kinul). 8 rooms w private bath: Rp. 130.000. Restaurant.

Egy Inn, next to CTO office. Ph: 0812 6558 569. Four rooms w bath: Rp. 100.000. Just ask in the warung.

Green lodge, next to elephant training center. Phone: 0813 7008 4859, 0813 7505 2438. Twelve rooms w. Bath: Rp. 110-150.000. Restaurant. Two km distance from the CTO center, but an ojek (MC-taxi) is Rp. 10-15.000.

NOTE: Prices are only indications.

TANGKAHAN > WHAT TO SEE & TO DO

Tangkahan has a lot to offer. You can always get more information at the community owned visitor Centre, CTO. They work on behalf of the Park Authorities.

Elephant Riding

Are any of your friends an elephant? If not, Tangkahan is the best place to get an elephant friend. Meet the seven (June 2008) Sumatran elephants staying in Tangkahan. The 35 years old Eva and her female friends Agustin, Ardana, Sari and Yuni. The only male is the still relatively young Teo. The last and smallest, but not the least, is the cute Olive, still too young to join the jungle patrols. Now there is also a new elephant baby. Two babies recently died to a elephant virus, very common amongst elephants.

To join the jungle patrol, report to the CTO Visitor Centre and they will arrange everything, including the park permit (Rp. 20.000). You cannot go directly to the Elephant camp. A one hour ride in the jungle is Rp. 650.000 per person and hour. Only one and three hour rides are available. The price includes the park permit. The one hour ride basically follows the river. The three hour ride enters the jungle.

 Rides combined with camping and tubing are also available. For example a one hour ride, elephant bathing, waterfall, tubing and lunch box. A two day one night trek with 3 hours elephant riding, tubing, camping and food is Rp. 6.300.000 for 2 persons.

You also get to see and to help the elephants getting bathed. Every morning at around 08.30 and afternoon at 15.30 they come down to the river for their bath. Every elephant has its "Mahout", or elephant trainer/driver. Respect the elephants and follow the instructions of the mahouts. Elephants are big and do have a mind of their own. All the elephants in Tangkahan were born in the wild. To take part in washing of the elephants and giving them elephant snacks is Rp. 100.000.

Why not try out a 3-day course in elephant handling at the CRU. It is only Rp. 4.500.000 You need a month to become a certified mahout, but with three days you can learn a lot and get a unique experience.

Note: Rides cannot be booked in advance. Rides are available on all days except Mondays, Thursdays and national holidays. The Elephant Jungle Patrol will unfortunately be closed down in the middle of the year (2012) and the few remaining treks are fully booked.

A ride is recommended for several reasons:

1. The unique setting with one of the most impressive national parks just over the river.
2. In Tangkahan you can ride through prime rain forest.
3. The ride functions as a jungle patrol. You actively help prevent illegal logging.
4. You actively support community based eco-tourism development.

SWIMMING AND TUBING
Sungai Musam is perfect for bathing and playing around in the clear water. Or just walk up-river, exploring the sights and enjoying the stream. Just float back down! You can rent a tube for Rp. 10.000 per day. It is ideal for floating back down the river. Ask in your accommodation where the butterfly beach is.

Just opposite the accommodations in Sungai Musam is a narrow little cave. Inside is a nice hot spring; so perfect to sit alone contemplating or with a friend, talking about the beauty of life.
CTO also arranges tubing adventures that last for ½ hour, 3 hours, or 5 hours.

JUNGLE TREKKING

 

Park permit and guide are obligatory for trekking in the Leuser National Park. It is all available at the community owned CTO Visitor Centre. There are several treks and walks to choose from. Anything between so called family treks to advanced treks.




 A few examples of treks available:
A 2,5 hour "Family Trek" is Rp. 360.000 for 2 persons.
A 3-3,5 hour "Youth Trek" is Rp. 600.000 for 3 persons.
A full day trek is Rp. 990.000 for 3 persons.
 A full day combination of trekking, caving, and tubing back home is Rp. 1.260.000 for 3 persons.
CTO has several trekking packages to choose from, up to as many days you want. You can also trek to Bukit Lawang. There is a 10m high waterfall and a big cave a four to five-hour trek from Tangkahan. Going home can be done by tubing.

IN THE JUNGLE
If you never have tried jungle trekking before, don't miss it now. It is nothing strange, dangerous or difficult. You don't have to be young and adventurous to do it. You only need interest in and curiosity for nature. If you don't have that, you will probably catch it. However, you must be fit enough. In the vicinity of Banda Aceh a new form of trekking has developed. You go with former guerilla soldiers in the forest where they once took cover from the enemy.

The first time visitor can sometimes be disappointed on how few animals are normally seen. One reason for this is the natural shyness of animals. Even though the animals are not seen, they are often nearby as they hide in the under-story or in the canopy overhead. Nevertheless, a patient observer will see the animals and take their photos as well.



TO SEE ANIMALS

• Develop an eye for what is always there, but often difficult to see: the primates and the reptiles. The best way is to choose a comfortable spot and just quietly wait.
• Search for things that are all around, but often go unnoticed: butterflies, termites, insects, frogs, etc.
• Learn to recognize the sounds of the forest.
• Learn to identify the tracks and other animal signs that are left on game trails, for example tracks of bears, tigers and ungulates.

EQUIPMENT
A classic sight is when tourists meet up with the local guide for their trek. The tourists carry heavy and full backpacks and dressed in latest wildlife fashion. The local guide comes with a plastic bag in his hand and flip-flops on his feet. Some equipment is recommended though:

• Light clothes, long trousers and long sleeved shirt.
• Comfortable walking shoes.
• Leech socks or 2 layers of ordinary socks (nylon socks are better barriers for leeches than cotton socks).
• Hat and rain cape (material that breathes is best, because of the humidity; sometimes an umbrella is most comfortable but on tracks through bushes sometimes difficult to keep up).
• Sleeping bag for higher altitudes.
• Personal medication, antihistamines (for bee stings), malaria pills.
• Sun lotion (for river rafting), insect repellent.
• Camera. A macro lens is often more useful.
• Binoculars are recommended.
• Plastic or waterproof bag for sensitive equipment.
• Food for all participants, including the guides.
• Tent or plastic sheeting for camps.

HOW TO BEHAVE

• Even though most snakes are not poisonous, one should be careful and not disturb snakes. If you get bitten, very unusual though, put a pressure bandage above and below the wound in order to slow down the spread of poison. Contact a doctor as soon as possible.
• Don't cut rattans and vines, they are essential for the ecosystem.
• Don't leave rubbish behind. Tins and plastic don't rot.
• If a fire is being lit, use only dead wood and clean the spot before leaving.
• Crossing rivers can be dangerous, especially after rains. Most accidents happen in rivers. It is better to wait and try later when the water level drops.
• "Take nothing but photos, leave nothing but footprints".
• Chose your guide carefully. Small groups are usually nicer than bigger ones. If you have a guide who feeds animals, for example, orangutans, report it to the National park office (PHKA).

VILLAGE LIFE

Tangkahan itself is just a few huts, but the two nearest villages, a few kilometers away, have app. 2.000 inhabitants together. The locals work mainly in the palm oil and rubber plantations/orchards. The 1st and 15th every month is the “rubber market” when the locals sell their raw rubber to the buyers that come and pick it up. It can be an interesting experience.  

 HANDICRAFTS

Check up the beautiful and price worthy necklaces made of colorful stones from the rivers.